Project #35 Suzanne
Please see end of pattern for any errata updates.
Instructions for Suzanne is for size Small
only. It is knitted top-down, flat, with contiguous
set-in-sleeves, four vertical button holes, & 1x1 ribbings. The vertical edgings & collar is later
added on with the collar knitted bottom-up.
The garment is fitted with 1” positive ease from my
chest measurements & no ease from my waist & upper hip measurements to
give a bit more shaping. Body
measurements were taken with what I planned to wear underneath (my last
project).
Difficulty level:
Intermediate/Advanced.
Sample size:
Small, to fit 32” chest, 26” waist, & 31” upper hip.
The finished project weighed about 635 g (with loose
yarns clipped, without buttons, & not including gauge swatches). For the whole project, I needed 4 balls of
Main Color (MC) & 2 balls of Contrasting Color (CC) listed in the Materials
section below. When in doubt, always get
an extra ball of yarn.
Materials, Tools, & Notions:
-Yarns: Lion Brand Yarns Wool Ease thick &
quick in Oatmeal (MC) & Black (CC) – 6 oz / 170 g & 106 yd / 97 m.
-Needle: 40”+ circular needle (CN) in size US
13 or 9.00 mm.
-Buttons: 1 ½” (38 mm) LaMode Button #29909.
-All else: Stitch markers, 4 split ring
markers, waste yarn, tape measure, yarn needle, & scissor.
Gauge:
-Blocked gauge in Stockinette St (knit flat): 4.5
sts x 6.5 rows = 2” x 2”
-Blocked gauge in 1x1 Ribbing (knit flat): 6.5
sts x 5.5 rows = 2” x 2”
INSTRUCTIONS
Back & Shoulder Seams:
CO 19 sts.
Row1 (RS): kfb, pm,
k1, pm, kfb, knit until 3 sts left, kfb, pm, k1, pm, kfb.
R2 (WS): *Purl until 1 st
before marker, pfb, sm, p1, sm, pfb*, repeat * to *, purl to end.
R3 (RS): *Knit until 1 st
before marker, kfb, sm, k1, sm, kfb*, repeat * to *, knit to end.
For R4 & 6, repeat R2 above.
For R5, repeat R3 above.
Neckline shaping is done on R7:
R7: K1, m1R, *knit until 1 st before marker, kfb,
sm, k1, sm, kfb*, repeat * to *, knit until 1 st left, m1L, k1.
For R8, repeat R2 above.
Coat Front & Sleeve Cap
Provisionally CO 12 sts on both ends of your work
using CC. Break working yarn &
reattach MC starting from the beginning of PCO sts on the RS of garment.
R9 (RS): (K1, p1) 4x, *knit
to marker, adjust shoulder cap markers so there are 3 sts in between, instead
of 1, by moving markers 1 st to the right or left*, repeat * to *, knit until 8
sts left, (p1, k1) 4x.
Sleeve Cap Shaping & Button Hole
The sleeve cap will be divided into three main
sections (a, b, & c) with 6 rows each, where two thirds of the shaping
increases will be worked in section a, one third of the increases in section b,
& no increases will be worked in c.
Row 1a (WS): (P1, k1)
4x, *purl to marker, sm, pfb, purl to 1 st before marker, pfb, sm*, repeat * to
*, (k1, p1) 4x.
R2a (RS): (K1, p1) 4x, *knit
to marker, sm, kfb, knit to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm*, repeat * to *, (p1,
k1) 4x.
R3a & 5a:
Repeat R1a.
R4a & 6a:
Repeat R2a.
R1b, 3b, & 5b
(WS): Work ribbing & St st in established pattern (no increases).
R2b, 4b, & 6b
(RS): Repeat R2a.
For all 6 rows of section c, work ribbing & St st
in established pattern with no increases.
In addition, a button hole will be worked in R2c & underarm
shaping will be worked in R5c.
R2c (RS): Work in
established pattern until 4 sts left (this is where the button hole starts),
turn.
R3c (WS): Work in
established pattern to end.
R4c: Work in established
pattern to button hole, break yarn.
Reattach yarn on the other side of button hole &
work 3 rows in established ribbing pattern.
Reconnect the sides of the button hole while working the next row.
Underarm Shaping & Underarm Cast-On
R5c (WS): *Work in
established pattern to marker, m1Rp, p1, sm, purl to marker, sm, p1, m1Lp*,
repeat * to *, work in established pattern to end.
From now on, a button hole will be worked every 14th
row, with R5c counting as the first row.
Work R6c, then cast on the underarms in the
next row (NR):
NR: *Work as established
until marker, put sleeve sts onto waste yarn while removing markers, CO 2 sts
using the backwards loop method, pm, CO 2 sts*, repeat * to *, work as
established until end.
Work as established until garment measures about 1.75”
from underarms.
Decreasing for Waist
Put split ring markers on the 10th st to
the right & left of the side markers (4 split ring markers).
Work decreasing row (DR) below when garment measures
2” & 4” from the underarms for a total of 8 sts decreased.
DR (RS): *Work as
established until 2 sts before marker, k2tog, knit the marked st & move
marker to this st, work as established until next split ring marker, knit the
marked st & move marker to this st, ssk*, repeat * to *, work as
established until end. (4 sts decreased)
After working the DR’s, continue to work in
established pattern until garment measures 5” from the underarms.
Switching to Ribbing & Gauge
Correction
NR: Work 8 sts in the
established ribbing pattern, then continue working in the 1x1 ribbing pattern
while increasing 22 sts by kfpb/pfkb until 8 sts left, work remaining sts in
established ribbing pattern.
Work in established ribbing pattern for about 2.5” or
until garment measures about 7.5” from underarms.
Increasing for Upper Hip
Adjust the split ring markers to the 13th
st from the side markers.
When garment measures 7.5” from the underarms, switch
to CC, & work increasing row 1 (IR1) below.
IR1: *Work as established
until marker, kfb/pfb*, repeat * to * three times, work as established until
end. (4 sts increased)
When garment measures 9.5” from the underarms, work
IR2:
IR2: *Work as established
until marker, kfpb/pfkb to restore ribbing pattern*, repeat * to * three times,
work as established until end. (4 sts increased)
BO in pattern loosely when garment measures about 11.5”
from the underarms.
Collar & Button Hole
Place live PCO sts onto needle by carefully unraveling
the waste yarn & attach MC from the RS of garment.
Work 3 rows on the right or the short side of the
button hole.
Break yarn & reattach on the other side of button
hole. Work 4 sts of established ribbing
& knit the remaining sts. Pick up
every 3 out of 4 sts along the slanted edges (7 sts), one st from the sleeve
caps, & every st along the back horizontal edge, & continue picking up
sts in this pattern until you reach the PCO sts on the other side. Work in the established pattern until end.
Connect the sides of the button hole as you work the
next row.
NR (WS): Work 8 sts of
ribbing, continue working in the ribbing pattern while increasing 21 sts evenly
by working kfpb/pfkb, until 8 sts left, & work in established ribbing
pattern until end.
Increasing suggestion: I divided the increasing into
groups of 10. For each group of 10, I
increased on the 2nd st for a total of nine times, & on the 1st
st one time, alternating between increasing 2nd/1st
throughout this group of 10. Following
this increasing pattern, the third increasing group should only contain one
increase, either on the 2nd or 1st st depending how many
sts are left. (21 sts increased)
BO loosely in pattern.
Sleeves
Move live sts onto the CN & arrange to work in the
magic loop method.
Round 1: Starting from
middle of UA, pick up 2 sts & knit across to the other side of UA, PU 2
sts, then place marker.
Work in St st until sleeve measures about 5” from UA.
Work in 1x1 ribbing sleeve measures about 7.5” from
UA.
Switch to CC & continue in ribbing pattern until
about 14” from UA.
BO loosely in pattern.
Finishing
PU every 3 out of 4 sts using CC on the front side
edges of the coat, then BO loosely.
To hide the CC poking through between the first &
2nd ribbing, I stitched the ribbings together using MC. Another option is to line the inside of the
front flaps with a decorative ribbon.
Weave in loose ends & sew on buttons.
Endnotes:
Thank you for your interest in my design!
Please look for me on:
Instagram:
@wendylinkdesigns
Ravelry:
Wendy Link
Further support can be made in my Kofi Shop.
Abbreviations:
BO:
Bind off.
CC:
Contrasting color.
CN:
Circular needle.
CO:
Cast on.
Kfb:
Knit front & back.
Kfpb:
Knit front, purl back.
M1l:
Make one left.
M1lp:
Make one left purl.
M1r:
Make one right.
M1rp:
Make one right purl.
MC:
Main color.
PCO:
Provisionally cast on.
Pfb:
Purl front & back.
Pfkb:
Purl front, knit back.
Pm:
Place marker.
PU:
Pick up.
RS:
Right side.
Sm:
Slip marker.
UA:
Underarm.
WS:
Wrong side.
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This area is reserved for errata:
2/14/24 update:
On pg 4, at the end of Collar & Buttonhole section right before BO in pattern, please insert:
"Work in established ribbing pattern until collar is about 3.5" measured from mid-back. Switch to CC & work one row in established pattern."
